-Hi, I'm Rick Steves,and it's party time in Europe. In this special episode,we'll see no museums and no art galleries, just lots of Europeanshaving lots of fun. People hereare expert at festivals, and we're invited. Let's go. ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ ♪♪ Europe hassome amazing festivals, and as traveler's,we're welcome to join in. I found that the more you relax,the more people the meet and the more you eat and drink, the more funyou're going to have. Now with that attitude,let's party. In this second of two episodeson European festivals, we'll drop in on some ofthe continent's top parties, each rich in tradition anda celebration of local culture, and all of themfull of opportunities to sing and dance, feast on traditional food, and party like a local. We'll dance with Spaniards,join wild and crazy crowds, and run for our lives. We'll browse holiday markets, sled down alps by torchlight, drink lots of beer, and light up the sky. With the entire continentas our playground, fun is our mission. Over two episodes,we'll careen all over Europe. In this second one, we'll visitApril Fair in Sevilla, Bastille Day in Paris, the Running of the Bullsin Pamplona, Oktoberfest in Munich, and Christmas in Nürnberg,Norway, and Switzerland. ♪♪ Europe, with all its history,art, and high culture, also knows how to celebrate. And with centuries of practice,it does it with gusto. If you know where to traveland when, you can enjoyextravagant festivals throughout the continentand throughout the calendar. And what better time of yearto celebrate than spring, a season of renewal and rebirth. Throughout southern Spain, a region so expertat fiestas and romance, cities like Sevillagreet each spring with a festivalfor all ages. A festival where the horses are nearly as dressed upas the people, a springtime flirtatiousnessfills the air, and travelers are more thanwelcome to join in the fun. For seven days each April,it seems much of Sevilla is packed intoits vast fairgrounds. The fair feels friendly,spontaneous, very real. The Andalusian passionfor horses, flamenco, and sherry, is clear. Riders are ramrod straight, colorfully clad señoritasride sidesaddle, and everyone's drinkingsherry spritzers. Women sport outlandish dresses that would look clownishall alone, but somehow brillianthere en masse. Hundreds of privateparty tents, or casetas,line the lanes. Each striped tentis the party zone of a particular family,club, or association. To get in, you need to knowsomeone in the group or make friends quickly. My local friend, Concepción,is well connected. - My caseta. No, no, no. -And as a friend of a friend,we're in. -This is your caseta?- Esta la caseta. -Because of the exclusivity, it has a realfamily-affair feeling. Throughout Andalucía,at spring fairs like Sevilla's, it seems everyone knows everyone in what seems like 1,000wedding parties being celebratedall at the same time. Festivals help maintaina culture's identity. Pageantry stokes local,regional, or national pride. And while annual festivalsare the big events, this celebration of culture can be just as richon a smaller scale. Traveling through Europe,any day of the year, you can experiencea festive spirit powered by music that simply makes daily lifemore celebratory. Beloved musical traditions havelong helped embattled cultures to assert their identity, to sing and dance their waythrough centuries of challenges, like the Roma peoplehere in the Czech Republic and throughout Europe. [ Up-tempo music plays ] People everywhere grabtheir folk instruments, pull on their national costumes, and gather togetherto celebrate their culture. Patriotic hearts beat stronger with the sounds ofeach nation's unique music, such as klapa music in Croatia. -[ Singing in native language ] -[ Singing in native language ] -Or rousing folk songsin Romania. -[ Singing in native language ] ♪♪ -In university townsthroughout Spain, roving bands of musicians,like medieval troubadours, are a festivaljust waiting to happen. ♪♪ In Austria, cradle ofso much classical music, waltzing is the national dance,and hearts beat in 3/4 time. [ Up-tempo classical musicplays ] ♪♪ [ Applause ] Colorful traditionsare often rooted in a desireto stoke patriotism. Many European countries,like Norway, are democracies but still haveconstitutional monarchs. And they celebratetheir royal heritage with a stirringChanging of the Guard ceremony, like this one atLondon's Buckingham Palace. These martial spectacles,like here in Sweden, are holdovers from a time whenthis coordinated show of force helped dispelany thoughts of attack or revolution against the crown. And you'll see cutelittle ceremonies by cute little countries,like here in Monaco. ♪♪ Even though Europemay be unified as one, each country hasits own national pride and national holiday. The most famousof these celebrates the violent end of a monarchy and the advent ofmodern democracy in France. France's national holidayis July 14th, Bastille Day. And that means a big party as all of Franceindulges in a patriotic bash. In Paris that meanslots of flags and lots of parties. ♪♪ Everyone's welcome to join in. ♪♪ Like towns and villagesall over the country, each neighborhood herehosts parties until late into the night. The local fire departmentis putting on this party. So I guess it doesn't matterif the fire marshal drops by. [ "I Gotta Feeling" plays ] -♪ Tonight's the night ♪ ♪ Let's live it up ♪ ♪ I got my money ♪ ♪ Let's spend it up ♪ ♪ Go out and smash it ♪ Like, oh, my God ♪ ♪ Jump off that sofa ♪ ♪ Let's get, get off ♪ -Each year,crowds pack the bridges and line the river as a grand fireworks display shares the skywith the Eiffel Tower. ♪♪ ♪♪ [ Cheers and applause ] Each country hasits iconic celebration. In France, it's fireworksover the Eiffel Tower. In Italy, it'sa crazy horse race. And in Spain,it's bullfighting. Next on our party tour: the biggest bull festivalof all -- Pamplona's Running of the Bulls. Officially known asthe festival of San Fermín, the Running of the Bullsis perhaps Europe's greatestadrenaline festival. For nine days each July,throngs of visitors -- most dressed inthe traditional white with red sashes and kerchiefs -- come to run with the bullsand a whole lot more. ♪♪ The festival, which packsthis city, has deep roots. For centuriesthe people of this region have honored Saint Fermín,their patron saint, with processions and parties. He was decapitated inthe 2nd century for his faith, and the red bandanasyou see everywhere are a distant reminderof his martyrdom. And you know, I don't thinkanybody on this square knows or even cares. But at the Church of San Fermín,it's a capacity crowd, and there's no questionwhat to wear for this Mass. To this day,locals look to Fermín, their hometown saint,for protection. Back out on the streets,its a party for young and old. There's plenty of fun for kids,and towering giants add a playful mysticto the festivities. ♪♪ [ Cheers and applause ] The literary giant,Ernest Hemingway, is celebrated by Pamplonaas if he were a native son. ♪♪ Hemingway first came here for the 1923Running of the Bulls. Inspired by the spectacle, he later wrotehis bullfighting classic, "The Sun Also Rises." He said he enjoyed seeing twowild animals running together: one on two legs,and the other on four. Hemingway put Pamplonaon the world map. When he first visited,it was a dusty town of 30,000 with an obscurebullfighting festival. Now, a million people a yearcome here for one of theworld's great parties. [ Up-tempo music plays ] After dark, the town eruptsinto a rollicking party scene. ♪♪ While the craziness ragesday and night, the city is well organized, and, even with all the alcohol, it feels in controland things go smoothly. ♪♪ Amazingly, in just afew hours, this same street will hosta very different spectacle. [ Mid-tempo music plays ] ♪♪ The Running of the Bullstakes place early each morning. Spectators claim a vantage pointat the crack of dawn. Early in the morning?Nope. For many of these revelers,its the end of a long night. The anticipation itselfis thrilling. Security crews sweep thosenot running out of the way. Shop windows and doorsare boarded up. Fencing is set upto keep the bulls on course and protect the crowd. The runners are called "mozos." While many are just finishing upa night of drinking, others train for the event. They take the ritual seriouslyand run every year. [ Rocket fires ] At 8 o'clock, a rocket is fired and the mozos take off. Moments later, a second rocket means the bullshave been released. They stampede half a milethrough the town, from their pensto the bullfighting arena. At full gallop, it goes by fast. [ Indistinct shouting ] ♪♪ Bulls thunder throughthe entire route in just 2 1/2 minutes. The mozos try to runin front of the bulls for as long as possible,usually just a few seconds, before diving out of the way. [ Indistinct shouting ] They say, on a good run,you feel the breath of the bull on the back of your legs. [ Indistinct shouting ] Cruel as this all seemsfor the bulls -- who scramble for footingon the cobblestones as they rush toward their doomin the bull ring -- the human participantsdon't come out unscathed. Each year, dozens of peopleare gored or trampled. Over the last century,15 mozos have been killed at the event. ♪♪ After it's done, peoplegather for breakfast and review the highlights on TV. All day long, local channelsreplay that morning's spectacle. -Oh!-Oh. -Oh!-Oh! -The festival's energycourses through the city. Overlooking the main square, the venerable Café Iruñapulses with music and dance. ♪♪ While the massesfill the streets, VIPs fill the city's ballrooms. It seems everyone is caught upin this festival of San Fermín. -Of Europe'smany great festivals, one of the wildest isOktoberfest here in Munich. Germany's favoriteannual beer bash originated about 200 years ago with the wedding receptionof King Ludwig I. Ludwig's party was such a hit, they've been celebratingevery year since. Oktoberfest lasts for two weeks, from late Septemberinto October. Filling a huge fairground, under a dramatic statuerepresenting Bavaria, locals set up about16 huge tents that can each seatseveral thousand beer drinkers. The festivities kick off withgrand parades through Munich, heading toward the fairgrounds. The queen of the paradeis the Münchner Kindl, a young woman wearinga monk's robe, riding the lead horsewith her beer stein raised. With thousands of participants,the parade seems endless. You'll see traditional costumes from every cornerof Bavarian society. ♪♪ Elaborately decoratedhorses and wagons, along with keg-filled floats from each of the city'smain breweries, entertain the crowds while making their wayto the festival grounds. Revelers fill massive tents,awaiting the grand opening. After trotting throughmuch of Munich, the parade finallyenters the fair grounds. Dignitariesare formally greeted, and another Oktoberfest begins. ♪♪ From now on,for the next two weeks, it's a beer-fueled frenzyof dancing, music, food, and amusements. There is no better placeto see Germans at play. The tents are surroundedby a fun forest of amusements. There's a huge Ferris wheel. The five-loops roller coastermust be the wildest around. For locals and tourists alike,the rides are unforgettable, and probably best done beforeyou start drinking your beer. ♪♪ Inside the tent, the partyrages day and night. Bavarian culture is strong here. Each of the tentshas a personality. Some are youthful. Some are more traditional. It's a festivalof German culture. While there areplenty of tourists, it's really dominated by locals who look forwardto this annual chance to celebrate Bavariaand its beer. -[ Shouting in native language ] -Fast-moving waitresses hoistarmloads of massive glasses. The beers are servedin cherished glass mugs -- each holding a literof their favorite local brew. The people-watching -- Germans letting their hair down -- is itself entertaining. Its a slap-happy worldof lederhosen, dirndls, fancy hats, and maidens with flowersin their hair. It's a mutligenerationalblowout, complete with schmaltzy musicand lots of new friendships. ♪♪ Rivers of beer are drunk,and tons of food are eaten. Radishes, pretzels,lots of sausage, all served by saucy maids. ♪♪ While I was too tipsy to count, locals claim there are6 million visitors, 7 million litersof beer drunk, half a million chicken cooked, and 100 oxen eaten. That's one trulymemorable festival. ♪♪ Just a few weeks after Munichfolds up its Oktoberfest tents, Germany celebratesin a different way by rolling outits Christmas markets. Perhaps the most belovedChristmas market is about 100 miles away,in Nürnberg. ♪♪ Each Christmas,Nürnberg's main square becomes a festive swirlof the heartwarming sights, sounds, and smellsof the holiday season. Long a center of toy-makingin Germany, a woody and traditional spirit that celebrates local artisansprevails. Nutcrackers are charactersof authority: uniformed, strong-jawed, andable to crack the tough nuts. Smokers -- with their fragrantincense wafting -- feature common folklike this village toy-maker. Prune people --with their fig body, walnut head, andprune limbs -- are dolled up inBavarian folk costumes. ♪♪ Bakeries crank outthe old-fashioned gingerbread, the Nürnberger Lebkuchen, still using the original17th-century recipe. Back then, Nürnberg was the gingerbread capitalof the world, and its love affairwith gingerbread lives on. Shoppers can also munchthe famous Nürnberg bratwurst -- skinny as your little finger -- and sip hot spiced wine. ♪♪ Like Easter, Christmas is built upon a paganpre-Christian festival, and we celebrate it today withplenty of pre-Christian rituals, often without even knowing it. -Oh, that's a good sign.-Mmm. -In Salzburg,they shoot big guns to scare away evil spirits. [ Gunfire ] In the Tirol,fathers bless their house as their ancestors did. Families, friends, and foodare integral to the French Noël. ♪♪ Winter brings a senseof magical wonder to Germany and Austria. Italy reveals the sacred natureof the season, from its countrysideto its grandest church. Nature,in all its wintry glory, seems to shout out the joyof the season in Switzerland. -"Down the chimney..."-And everywhere, Christmas is celebratedwith family as, together, Europe remembersthe quiet night that that holiest familycame to be. The European Christmas seasonis long and festive. Rather than counting downthe shopping days left, it's all about traditionsand saints' days. For example, December 13is big in Norway. It's Santa Lucia Day -- one of the darkest daysof winter -- and an important part of theScandinavian Christmas season. All over Nordic Europe, little candle-bearingSanta Lucias are bringing lightto the middle of winter, and the promiseof the return of summer. These processions are ledby a young Lucia wearing a crown of lights. -[ Singing in native language ] ♪♪ ♪ Santa Lucia, Santa Lucia ♪ [ Applause ] -This home has housed widowsand seniors for over 200 years, and today the kindergartnersare bringing on the light in more ways than one.The children have baked the traditionalSanta Lucia saffron buns -- the same onesthese seniors baked when they were kindergartners. Taking their cuefrom Santa Lucia, Norwegians -- cozy intheir homes -- brighten their long, darkwinters with lots of candles, white lights -- you'll neversee a colored one -- and lots of greenery. ♪♪ And high in Switzerland,where the churches are small and the villages huddlebelow towering peaks, the mighty Alpsseem to shout the glory of God. Up here, Christmas fillsa wintry wonderland with good cheer. [ Bells jingling ] In these villages,traditions are strong... ♪♪ and warmth is a priority. Stoves are small,so firewood is, too. ♪♪ My family has arrivedfor a Swiss Alps Christmas. They've joined me here inthe tiny village of Gimmelwald. Our friends Olle and Mariaand their kids are giving my kids,Andy and Jackie, a good lessonin high-altitude Christmas fun. -Whoo! ♪♪ -Olle is taking ushigh above his village on a quest to find and cutthe perfect Christmas tree. ♪♪ -Ah, what do you think?-I like it a lot, Olle. -Yeah, this is a good tree.I think we should cut it. -Yeah. ♪♪ All right!-Wonderful! [ Indistinct conversations ] ♪♪ -Still high above Gimmelwald, we're stopping in a hutfor a little fondue. [ Laughter ] -Goes too far. -Fondue seems perfect in winterif you've come in from the cold. For them, it sets the tonefor a warm and convivial time. Combined withgood friends and family, during the Christmas season, we have all the ingredients for a delightfullittle Alpine festival. -[ Laughs ]-Oh, wow. - Before we know it, the light outsidebegins to fade. Here's to a happy Christmas.-Yeah. -Whoo!-Cheers. ♪♪ -As the sun sets,we've got our tree and enjoy a fairy-tale ridehome to Gimmelwald. ♪♪ -Yahoo!-Yahoo! ♪♪ [ Laughter ] ♪♪ -[ Laughs ]-Whoo-hoo! ♪♪ [ Laughter ] -Festivals help keepEurope's rich heritage alive. As we've seen,they bring families and communities together, and everybody is welcome. They create lifelong memoriesand are flat-out lots of fun. Thanks for joining us. I'm Rick Steves, encouraging youto enjoy festive journeys. Keep on travelin'. [ Indistinct shouting ] ♪♪ -Whoo! [ Drinkers speakingnative language ] -[ Laughs ] Whoo! [ Crowd cheers ] Whoo! Yeah! ♪♪